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Comme des Garcons: SS13 Campaign in Collaboration with Katsuhiro Otomo.

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George Reyes

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Letting Alan and Bê tell their amazing stories. It’s time to give them their flowers.

From Boston to the World: A Conversation With Alan & Bê Bilzerian

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NEO TOKYO IS ABOUT TO EXPLODE. This instantly recognizable phrase is from one of the anime industry’s most iconic films, Akira by Katsuhiro Otomo. From the movie’s explosion in popularity to its dedicated cult following, Otomo became increasingly known for his range of enigmatic creations. As such, it came as no surprise that Rei Kawakubo would collaborate with him for Comme des Garcons’ Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign. The artwork from the campaign features characters, scenes and manga pages from Akira, and are seamlessly combined with Otomo’s more standalone art pieces. This collage of imagery results in the form of familiar yet alien pieces of works, drawing parallels with CDG’s deconstructed and raw clothing of the 80’s. The collaboration has proven to stand the test of time, with the collaboration’s prints and items still being sought after to this very day.

Comme Des Garçons in french simply means 'like boys', with the brand of the same phrase being created by the Japanese mastermind Rei Kawakubo. She first founded the label in 1969 in Tokyo and it quickly began to gain popularity in the 70’s. CDG released its first menswear line in 1978 with their first ever runway show in Paris a few years later in 1981. The brand was often associated with a thrashed-punk style and many of her early collections were well received during the 80’s and 90’s despite her uncommon creative style. From early on, CDG had many different sub-labels under their umbrella such as CDG Homme Plus and CDG Noir, but by the early 2000’s designers like Junya Watanabe and Fumitu Ganryu had their own lines under the CDG label as well. Each of these lines has its own purpose, while other lines were specific to wallets, fragrances, jewelry, and swimwear.

With the creation of Dover Street Market in 2004, the CDG Play line gained popularity quickly and offered casual streetwear catering to a younger audience in a more accessible price range. The Play line is one of the most recognizable lines from CDG as most of the T-shirts and hoodies are usually decorated with their unsophisticated yet classic heart with eyes logo originally created by Filip Pagowski. The success of CDG eventually led to their first collaboration with the footwear giant Converse in 2009 which has continued since with them releasing many new editions of the shoes. In more recent years, Comme Des Garçons has done collaborations with streetwear and designer brands like Supreme, Louis Vuitton, and Nike, the company has become one of the most successful 'anti-fashion houses' in the industry.

When people hear the name ‘Comme des Garcons’, a wide variety of images and feelings pop up, proving that the Japanese brand has created an aesthetic universe of its own. This masterful execution of fashion world building couldn't have been fully expanded upon without the catalyst that was the SIX Magazine. Created in 1988, SIX served as a breeding ground for experimental branding with a small twist: the branding rarely (if ever) involved Comme des Garcons’ own clothing. Instead of falling back on conventional methods of fashion advertising, the bi-annual publication incorporated non fashion related artwork and photography to convey the Japanese brand’s collections. SIX also tapped into a wide array of creatives who sometimes weren’t even involved in the industry, and yet this is exactly what gave fashion a breath of fresh air. Not only did SIX solidify Comme des Garcons as an entire entity of its own, it also changed our own perception of fashion to this very day.

SIX Number 5

Katsuhiro Otomo for Comme des Garcons DM 1

Katsuhiro Otomo for Comme des Garcons DM 17

Katsuhiro Otomo for Comme des Garcons DM 13

SIX Number 3

Katsuhiro Otomo for Comme des Garcons DM 25

SIX Number 4


'Rei Kawakubo and Comme Des Garçons' not only shares with us an inside look at some of the most well-known CDG collections from the 1980’s, but also gives us insight into the depth and universality of her talent. We are able to see the behind the scenes of Kawakubo’s design studio, furniture designs, and CDG store interior design from all over the world. Kawakubo was also expanding and experimenting her range of runway models at the time, and began to work with celebrity names like Jean-Michel Basquiat and John Malkovich. We also see some beautiful images of the famous supermodel Naomi Campbell wearing CDG photographed by Peter Lindbergh, as well as several pages of behind the scenes content and runway show images.

It is wonderful to be able to see Kawakubo’s interior design process for her stores in London, San Francisco, and Aoyama which carried CDG’s entire collection. Featuring sharp angles and contrast, everything about each store has been specifically selected or designed to match the aesthetic of the brand, everything from the lighting to the clothing racks to the changing room had been personally picked out by Rei Kawakubo. This book shows us how far-reaching Rei’s talents are, showing no boundaries when it comes to one discipline or another. She isn't just a clothing designer, but a creator and curator of her entire vision.

Rei Kawakubo and Comme des Garcons

Released in very limited amounts in 1997, Comme des Garcons Visionnaire 20 was a rare peek back into the archives of Rei Kawakubo and Comme des Garcons. The book itself was highly limited, with only 2,800 copies being produced, and each one being hand numbered. What's contained within the pages of this book is more interesting than its limited nature.

Rather than merely having Kawakubo and her label's staff put together outfits, she decided to let other visionaries such as Karl Lagerfeld, Alexander McQueen, and Nick Knight each put together looks for the book. By digging through CDG archives stretching back as far as 1982, each creator had a wide array of garments to choose from. What resulted from this meeting of creative minds is nothing short of genius, with each participant producing radically different images. Ranging from metal restraints, to the streets of Hong Kong, the outfits fused the avant-garde works of CDG with a wide variety of fashion philosophies and settings. The looks themselves are marvelous, with some being glitzy and glamorous, while others toyed with darker themes. The book itself is now considered a collectors item, with prices ranging anywhere from 1,000-2,000 USD.

CDG and by extension Kawakubo are best known for their avant-garde works, which range all the way from deconstructed garments to fragrances. The theme that has tied decades of her and CDGs’ work together has been the commitment to being unflinchingly artistic. In this book, she let artists take her work out of this context, and create something new out of her existing ideas, in a quite rare move for Kawakubo. The outfits featured in the book mainly show the stylist’s idea of fashion, but like darkness creeping across the land, Kawakubo's influence shadows and lords over all of it.

Visionaire 20: Comme des Garcons

Katsuhiro Otomo for Comme des Garcons DM 18

Rei Kawakubo has been perpetually pushing the fashion world forward through Comme Des Garcons since her designs first hit the market in 1969, and her SS1997 show ‘Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body’ was no exception. Featuring bumpy, asymmetrical lumps without rhyme or rhythm, the season was just as perplexing during that time as it is now. However, the manner in which this season was advertised may shed some light on Kawakubo’s intent and inspiration. Featured in CDG SIX 1/4 in collaboration with Visionaire No. 20, the advertising images were featured next to photos of seafood and various crustaceans of similar colors. In the amorphous designs of that season, Kawakubo may have been referencing humanity's genetic origins, or perhaps even the way forms mutate and shift over millennia as evolution takes its course.

SIX 1/4

This Universe of Fashion book was released in 1998 under Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garcons label and features iconic advertisements and photographs used in CDG's Direct Mail ads. As described in the short article from Universe of Fashion, Rei Kawakubo is an honest and sincere designer, and enjoys working and collaborating with creatives and artists of all types. She loves experimenting with other artists including photographers, graphic designers, architects, and even floral artists. After looking through some of the Direct Mail ads, it is clear that Kawakubo really enjoys the process of working alongside other people and how she can trust other artists with her vision. Universe of Fashion also explains her interest in photography and color, both of which have directly impacted the clothing she makes and the imagery she puts out to represent her brand Comme Des Garçcons.

Universe of Fashion: Comme des Garcons

Katsuhiro Otomo for Comme des Garcons DM 24

Katsuhiro Otomo for Comme des Garcons DM 14

SIX Number 6

Katsuhiro Otomo for Comme des Garcons DM 5

Comme des Garcons

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High fashion is notoriously known for its displays of status and extravagance, so much so that it overshadows the creative genius of those who reside within the industry. But despite its outward projection of affluence and aspiration, many fall victim to its financial burdens, with a countless number designers and brands falling into the wayside as a result. Though many try to hide these struggles behind displays of success, Yohji Yamamoto heads in the opposite direction through his book ‘My Dear Bomb’. A byproduct of Yamamoto’s struggles with the bankruptcy of his company in 2009, the book acts as a canvas through which he expresses his inner thoughts, turmoils and sensibilities. A rare look into the mind of fashion’s most respected designers of our time, the contents of ’My Dear Bomb’ range from his philosophical thoughts to personal design principles, thoughts on the human body, relationships with women, poetic sensibilities, and more.

Yohji Yamamoto was born in Tokyo and grew up working with his mother for her dress tailoring business. At first he earned a degree in Law, but after graduating it was his mom’s tailoring work that led him to study fashion design at the Bunka Fashion College, eventually graduating in 1969. After discovering fashion from his mother at a young age, Yamamoto has now been revered as a master tailor known for his experimental interpretation of the Japanese aesthetic. The first Yohji runway shows were held in Tokyo in the late 70’s and he eventually had Paris and New York debuts during the early 80’s.

These first fashion week shows drew in large crowds and Yamamoto began to gain traction in the press. By the early 90’s Yamamoto had developed a dark avant-garde lifestyle that was extremely appealing to many; Long draped dresses, almost sculptural jackets, and large hats are all staple pieces to both his mens and womenswear lines. Yamamoto does not design his clothing based on any trends in fashion, he simply uses his own inspiration and outlook to make his ideas come to life. Alongside both Yohji Yamamoto Mens and Womens collections and sub-label 'Y’s', 'Y-3' was created in 2003 acting as an experimental sportswear line. Yohji Yamamoto is the godfather of Japanese fashion in a sense, paving his own lane, doing what he does best, and not veering off track, which is why he is such an emblematic fashion designer.


The 'Yohji Yamamoto Memories' book acts as a retrospective of some of his most notable advertisements and editorial images. He has had quite a long career as a fashion designer, first starting out in the 70’s. The book mostly covers his work through the 80’s and 90’s and offers us a look behind the dark curtain of Yohji Yamamoto’s creative vision and meticulous design process. Some of the images show him working on choosing and tailoring the garments as well as some of his original sketches for runway looks which are stunning. Many of the photographs in the book were run in high-end fashion magazines like Vogue or Marie Claire, and Yamamoto had the pleasure of working with a lot famous fashion photographers at the time like Paolo Roversi, Nick Knight, Arthur Elgort, and David Sims. Some of Yamamoto’s most famous advertisements and campaigns can be viewed in this book and gives us a phenomenal insight into the world of Yohji Yamamoto.

Yohji Yamamoto Memoires

My Dear Bomb


Although his first collection was released in Japan in 1977, it wasn’t until the mid 80’s and 90’s that Yohji Yamamoto became an influential name in the world of fashion. Photographer David Sims shot these impressive images for Yamamoto’s Autumn/Winter 1995 lookbook, one of the designer’s more symbolic collections from the 90’s. The use of flat color of the simple backdrops really allows the sparse color and details of the pieces to stand out. These bright images are mixed with black and white photos and still lifes that contribute to the overall artistic style of the book. This is an impressive selection of images that shows us one of Yohji’s collections from the height of his career and influence in the 1990’s.