Felix Ramirez

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Kapital has consistently approached fashion from multiple perspectives since its birth in 1984. Though the clothes themselves are held in high regard for their visual details and construction, it can be argued that the brand's editorial lookbooks shift its clothing into an unbelievable context. Photographed by Eric Kvatek and directed together with Kapital’s Kiro Hirata, the Kapital lookbooks serve to bring its readers into worlds unbeknownst to the everyman, its content ranging from the spiritual beings of faraway islands to the desolate lifestyles of the countryside and misfits of city alleyways, to name a few. It’s no wonder that so many individuals from all walks of life gravitate to such a culturally diverse brand 

Kapital, a cult Japanese fashion brand founded in 1985 in Kojima, Japan, stands out for its authenticity and individuality, with Kiro Hirata leading the creative direction. Known for unique themes like Boro denim and Century denim, Kapital's annual lookbooks reflect its philosophy, showcasing experimental garments, challenging proportions, and distinctive fabric choices. The brand explores diverse cultures and historical periods, with each catalog offering a unique visual and storytelling experience. Despite its growing popularity, Kapital maintains a DIY approach to catalog creation, emphasizing raw, unproduced aesthetics. The text delves into the complex topic of cultural appropriation, questioning the brand's portrayal of various cultures while acknowledging the difficulty of making clear distinctions. In recent years, Kapital has shifted towards a more encompassing approach, incorporating global sources into its styling, all while maintaining a commitment to eccentricity. The brand's lasting cultural impact is acknowledged, prompting appreciation for its unique visual language and influence on the fashion industry.

The yearly lookbooks that are released are most pertinent to understanding the unique way Kapital approaches the world - acting as a visual language of the philosophy of Kapital. They produce these with full creative control with often little change to the core team, adhering to guidelines set only by themselves with seemingly no limitation. This in itself seems to defy the way we collectively approach the fashion process, to remain true and unique at all costs. They have and continue to participate in eccentric defiance. 

Aloha Brigade Lookbook

Fukkin Kountry LookBook

Kapital

kapital_fukkin-kountry-lookbook.pdf

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The Legend of Harajuku is the perfect title to describe Goro Takahashi, who himself is an enigma in Japanese and American society. Broken up into 3 volumes, the first volume provides an introductory outlook on Goro Takahashi’s life journey. The book utilizes various styles of photography to narrate his life experiences and interactions, all while building the foundation to display Takahashi’s fascination with Native American society and culture. The grainy images of a young Goro Takashashi is juxtaposed with detailed images of his craftsmanship and products. The sections of the book have a focus on the various products that Takahashi has masterfully crafted throughout his lifetime, such as belts, leather goods, and rings.


Established by Goro Takahashi following a profound spiritual encounter during his initiation into the Lakota tribe in the United States, Goros is a distinguished Japanese brand celebrated for its exquisite, handcrafted jewelry inspired by Native American traditions. Crafted in small batches, the jewelry is exclusively available from a sole storefront in Harajuku, Tokyo. The brand has cultivated a devoted following due to its highly limited and exclusive inventory, accessible only to those willing to endure hours of anticipation for entry and engage in a ceremonial shopping experience. This exclusivity has solidified Goros' legacy as one of Japan's most renowned brands, emphasizing its dedication to craftsmanship, cultural exchange, and a distinctive human-centered retail model. This approach has garnered worldwide attention, inspiring pilgrimages from enthusiasts across the globe.

Legend of Harajuku Goros, Volume 2

Legend of Harajuku Goros, Volume 1

Goros

goros_legend-of-harajuku-goros-volume-1.pdf

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For almost 5 decades, Issey Miyake has been pioneering the concept of modern Japanese heritage in fashion. As a survivor of post World War II trauma, Issey Miyake was born into the destruction of his country and participated in its rise and redemption. After his studies, Miyake would travel to Paris then New York to accumulate experiences and ideas to build his fashion empire. His Western travels would land him back in Tokyo, where he established his namesake brand that would ultimately revolutionize Japanese fashion and global fashion as a whole. Miyake has spent the past 5 decades reinforcing his design motifs: texture, shape, fabric, proportions, and technology. He blends these motifs with his equilibrium balance of Eastern and Western heritage. Miyake often references his Western experiences but never forgets his Eastern roots, creating a different world for his garments to exist in.

Issey Miyake was revered as a mystic figure with a profound understanding of humanity. Born in Hiroshima in 1938, witnessing the city's destruction by a nuclear bomb shaped his existential perspective. Miyake's career began in Paris, influenced by the May 1968 protests, and later, he established the Miyake Design Studio (MDS) in 1970. His design philosophy focused on simplicity and pragmatism, creating garments that made life easier. Collaborations with artists like Irving Penn and a commitment to sustainability marked his influential career. Miyake's contributions extended beyond fashion, impacting Japan's creative scene, and his ethos of moving forward and fostering curiosity transcends art and clothing. After relinquishing design control in 1999, he focused on innovative textiles until his passing. Miyake's legacy is defined by a relentless pursuit of progress and curiosity.

The book, Issey Miyake: East Meets West, came out in 1978 and features an impressive contrast of designs influenced by both Eastern and Western cultures. East Meets West was the first ever monograph that was created about the living fashion designer, and its importance is unquestionable. With over 200 pages of full bleed color images featuring some of Issey Miyake’s colorful clothing, the book truthfully depicts the designer’s passion for design, culture, and authenticity. From editorial photos shot by the likes of Noriaki Yokosuka (as covered in our previous post), to the capturing of runway spectacles that combine movement with clothing, it goes without saying that East Meets West immerses you into the fantastic world of Issey Miyake.

East Meets West

Designer Issey Miyake and photographer Irving Penn first met in New York City in the 80’s. Penn and Miyake kicked it off and eventually Irving Penn flew to Japan to photograph the early days of Miyake’s Design Studio. Penn was able to view the behind the scenes of Miyake’s experimenting with his process of creating the pleats for “Pleats Please!”. The book shows some of Miyake’s most famous pieces in beautiful detail photographed on clean white backdrops with bright light to capture the pleat pattern. The models all were draped in garments of bright colors and intricate patterns and pose in an almost theatrical manner. During this time in the 80’s Miyake had been working with several ballets and theatre plays doing costume design. As a child he also had always wanted to be a dancer so we continue to see these performance arts inspiring Miyake with further collections. The photos were used as advertisements for Issey Miyake, they also made this limited run book of the stunning photographs the two artists collaborated on in the 80’s.

Issey Miyake Photographs by Irving Penn

Making Things

Issey Miyake

issey-miyake_making-things.pdf

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goros_legend-of-harajuku-goros-volume-2.pdf

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View Felix Ramirez's contributions at ARCHIVE.pdf.