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Raf Simons: The Fourth Sex, a Tribute to Youth Culture.

Clothing Redux

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The Fourth Sex is Raf Simons’ second book and consists of 359 images of adolescent extremes. Rebellion is a foundational pillar of Raf’s legacy and design ethos, as he spends significant effort to showcase this in this book. From collages of punk magazines to Tiananmen Square to an uncomfortable amount of males with shaved heads, Raf showcases a critical yet innocent spotlight on adolescence and youth culture. Not only does he capture the pure and innocent transition of the teenager to young adulthood, Raf shines a spotlight on the process with strong and vivid visuals. The book itself is a visual compilation of pain, pleasure, anxiety, curiosity, joy, and contradictions. It is filled with portraits of the youth, juxtaposed with films that have a sentimental meaning to Raf and his upbringing. There are elements of rebellious punk music mixed in with surveillance photos of Eric Harris and Dylan Klebold, the Columbine High School shooters. The atmosphere of the pages feel innocent yet severely intentional, creating a very complex mood that is commonly shared among the youth culture.

As a graduate of the LUCA School of Arts, Raf Simons, a Belgian fashion designer, has been a trailblazer for contemporary fashion and luxury streetwear. Raf began researching menswear on his own and began his namesake brand, Raf Simons, in 1995. His early designs were a direct representation of his obsession with youth culture, rebellion, European punk music, and David Bowie. Raf’s work in the 90s and early 2000s established himself as a borderline cult-leader in fashion, as the audience always paid attention when something new came from the designer and his brand. Influenced heavily by the Antwerp 6+, Raf was able to curate and pave his own niche road in the fashion industry. He never deviated from his reference foundational pillars of youth culture, rebellion, music, and films. Everything was intentional and everything seemed effortless. That was the ethos that Raf created & upheld for decades of fashion and creative expression.

Raf Simons has also been a pioneer of collaborations and bridging entities on opposite sides of the cultural and artistic spectrum. From household names like Fred Perry, Brain Calvin, Adidas, Sterling Ruby, and the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation, Raf has always believed in the concept of taking two and making one. The result is an extensive portfolio of creative collections that will withstand the test of time and saturation. Along with his namesake brand, Raf Simons has also gotten several nods and co-signs from major fashion houses. In 2005, he was appointed to the creative director role at Jil Sander, establishing his first opportunity to create and showcase womenswear. After 7 years at Jil Sander, Raf continued his womenswear journey at Dior and dabbled with Haute-Couture in 2012. Raf’s time at Dior propelled his ethos as one of the titans of fashion design, as his minimalist tailoring complimented the incorporation of genuine emotion via artistic expressions. His three and a half tenure at Dior came to an end via resignation and Raf took his talents to Calvin Klein as their Chief Creative Officer. This was Raf’s first attempt at testing his American influence, as he began showing in New York City. Though his time at Calvin Klein was his shortest creative appointment, Raf was able to continue his journey of effortless intention and establish himself as one of the Godfathers of fashion design. In 2020, Raf joined Miuccia Prada’s Prada as a co-creative director and began showing in Milan in 2021. Not only was this appointment a full-circle moment for Raf, it was a moment of closure for fashion. Raf, who spent his entire fashion career poking at the status quo, continues to push the design limits with his forever young rebellious spirit. That is the true definition of a timeless legacy.

The Fourth Sex

Overwhelmed by hype, many newcomers to fashion find themselves uninformed on the true cultural impact of Raf Simons; Look no further than the flexing of his pieces on Instagram and people bragging of purchasing his archival garments for thousands of dollars. To counteract this superficial point of view, we need to equip ourselves with the knowledge necessary to truly understand Raf’s work. One such article of knowledge is the iconic book: Raf Simons Redux. From his very first collection to the now iconic collections such as ‘Consumed’ and ‘Riot! Riot! Riot!,’ Redux takes you into the true essence of Raf Simons. The content ranges from photos illustrating youth and the counterculture, to various works the delve into his philosophy and more. Combined with Raf Simons’ ‘The Fourth Sex’ book, Redux will forever change your understanding of this designer for the best.

Raf Simons Redux

Raf Simons’ seminal Autumn Winter 2002 collection, titled ‘Virginia Creeper’, is one of the most revered collections of the 21st century. As a powerful representation of his early fashion journey, the show is centered on Simons’ unique approach of storytelling with graphics and typography. With a focus on the Virginia Creeper plant, Simons creatively portrays an eerie relationship between humans and nature. The native North American plant is a fast-growing, dark-green vine that clings to walls and spreads until it occupies an entire space. Simons references this plant with an acid-wash finish applied to the collection’s university-branded sweatshirts & hoodies (the plant contains oxalic acid, a chemical toxic to most mammals). As time goes on, the acid eats away at  the garment – just like the Virignia Creeper toxifying its environment.

The collection also showcased a deeper materials exploration: trench coats, oversized leather jackets & trousers, hunting vests, digital camo knit sweaters, and even a sleeping bag. These pieces emphasized Simons’ fascination with Americana, as models wore college-style typography sweatshirts and varsity jackets under oversized plastic ponchos and trench coats. The runway was set in a dim, red-lit woodland area filled with trees and bushes. Models emerged from the bushes and continued their walk down the trail, elevating the dark and mysterious undertones of the collection.

The growth of the Virginia Creeper plant eerily mirrors that of the human species: both are seemingly harmless organisms that ultimately overwhelm and consume their environment, until there are no traces of original space left.

Clothing Redux

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The Fourth Sex